金忠英 Suwon Microscope(121) Hwaseong Royal Procession (1) – Eight Days of Celebration Held in Suwon 228 Years Ago

Five years after the new city was constructed in Suwon, with the beginning of 1794, the Hwaseong construction project commenced. One year later, in 1795 (the Year of the Rabbit), marked the sixtieth birthdays of Crown Prince Sado and Lady Hong Hye-gyeong, and it was the twentieth year of King Jeongjo's reign.

The sixtieth birthday celebration banquet was scheduled for the second lunar month at Hwaseong Haenggung Palace, before the farming season began in earnest. To prepare for this banquet, which required court music, court dances, and court cuisine, a temporary organization called the Jeongri Office (整理所) was established on December 11, 1794.

The first priority was to prepare for approximately 6,000 people who would participate in the celebration, and most of them would need to travel from Seoul to Suwon. Until then, the route from Seoul to Suwon had used the Jejudae-ro (Samnam Road) passing through Gwacheon.

Crossing the steep Namtae Ridge in Gwacheon at that time required considerable effort in road maintenance, and the difficult terrain made it challenging for 6,000 people to reach Suwon. Therefore, efforts were made to construct a new route—the Siheung Road, which passed through Siheung and Anyang.

After thorough preparations, on the fourth day of the second lunar month in 1795, a practice run was held for crossing the Hangang River on a pontoon bridge. On this occasion, King Jeongjo issued strict instructions to his officials, expressing concerns about excessive loyalty.

First, do not seek rare and exotic foods from distant places to present.

Second, do not make food flavors luxurious and extravagant following the customs of ordinary markets.

Third, absolutely prohibit each station from privately presenting gifts to the king.

Fourth, do not select female entertainers and performing artists from each province; instead, select a small number of people from among those serving in their official duties at the Royal Infirmary, Medical Service Bureau, Ministry of Works, and the Royal Wardrobe, and assign them equally between Seoul and Hwaseong entertainers.

Fifth, ensure the clothing of musicians and entertainers is clean, but not extravagant.

Sixth, limit the royal dining table to no more than ten dishes.

Seventh, since banquet music differs from court-prescribed music, keep it simple, and repair and use instruments that already exist in Seoul and Hwaseong.

Even after these instructions, King Jeongjo was not fully assured. On the eighth day of the second lunar month, one day before the departure, he dispatched a secret royal inspector to conduct surveillance.

King Jeongjo's Hwaseong Royal Procession proceeded over eight days.

First day (ninth day of the second lunar month), King Jeongjo departed from the Yeongchun Hall at Changdeok Palace, went to Sujeong Hall to pay respects to his grandmother (Queen Soondeok), and left his consort at the palace. He departed accompanied only by his mother, Lady Hong Hye-gyeong, and his sisters, Princess Cheongyeon and Princess Cheongseon.

When the third drum sounded at dawn (6:00 AM), King Jeongjo put on his military attire and mounted a horse, while his mother, Lady Hong Hye-gyeong, and his two sisters rode in palanquins. According to the procession diagram in the "Wonhaeng Eulmyo Jeongri Uigwe," the total number of attendants, including Prime Minister Chae Chae-gong, reached 1,779, with 779 horses. The actual number of people participating in the celebration was approximately 6,000, of which about 4,500 were military personnel, including 3,000 soldiers from the Jangyong Garrison.

As seen in the procession diagram, hundreds of flags fluttered, and the sight of 115 mounted musicians performing was spectacular. The procession of 1,779 people would have stretched more than one kilometer.

The royal procession departed from the main gate of Changdeok Palace, Donhwamun Gate, passed through the street in front of Bosingak, crossed the Daekwangtong Bridge and Sogwangtong stone bridge over Cheonggyecheon, and proceeded to Sungnyemun Gate. As the procession reached the Yongsan area, spectators gathered on the hillside. King Jeongjo ordered that they not be stopped.

The procession then reached the pontoon bridge across the Hangang River. Upon reaching the red-painted wooden gate in the middle of the pontoon bridge, King Jeongjo descended from his horse and visited his mother's palanquin to greet her. After crossing the pontoon bridge, King Jeongjo arrived first at Yongyang Bongjeong Pavilion to inspect where his mother would rest. King Jeongjo personally served food to his mother at Yongyang Bongjeong Pavilion. The meals for his two sisters were the same as the king's, but provisions for attendants varied according to rank.

After taking food and rest at Norang, the procession proceeded toward the Siheung Haenggung Palace, thirteen ri away. Siheung was originally called Geumcheon. When the celebration was prepared and the new road was constructed, the name of the district was changed to Siheung County.

The procession departed from Yongyang Bongjeong Pavilion, passed through Manan County (colloquially Mannyangogae), proceeded through Jangseung County (present-day Jangseungbaeki), and headed toward Beondaebang Pyeong in Siheung. Upon reaching Munseong-dong in Siheung (now Siheung-daero), King Jeongjo halted the procession momentarily. King Jeongjo had a blue cloth tent erected around his mother and personally offered "mium dabsan" (a warm beverage made from boiled jujubes).

King Jeongjo called upon Jeongri Officer Yoon Haeng-im, instructing him to go ahead to Siheung Palace and conduct personal inspections, and said he would go first shortly to inspect personally. King Jeongjo arrived first, thoroughly inspected the palace, waited for his mother, and escorted her inside. Siheung Haenggung was newly constructed for this procession. When the Jeongri Officer brought the evening meal, King Jeongjo personally presented it to his mother. King Jeongjo repeated this practice at every stop.

King Jeongjo said, "The weather is clear and my mother is healthy, so I cannot suppress feelings of joy," and then distributed food to his officials, saying, "This food is bestowed by my mother, so eat your fill."

Second day (tenth day of the second lunar month), after spending a night at Siheung Palace, King Jeongjo proceeded to Sagun Jams Haenggung (the site of the current Uiwang City Hall annex) for lunch. The royal procession traveled along what is now Siheung-daero toward Anyang. The procession crossed the Man'an Bridge, newly constructed for this journey, and briefly rested at Anyang Station. The procession resumed and arrived at Sagun Jams Haenggung Palace. King Jeongjo first inspected the facilities and escorted his mother inside before partaking of morning refreshments called "judaseban-gwa" (afternoon tea desserts) and lunch.

At this point, rain began to fall. King Jeongjo said, "I am concerned that the officials and soldiers will be caught in the rain, but since Hwaseong is not far from here, we can arrive today," and the procession equipped themselves with rain gear and departed. The procession then reached Mireuk County. Originally called Sagun Pass, it was renamed Mireuk County as the royal processions became frequent, and later changed again to Jiji-daero. King Jeongjo halted the procession again to greet his mother. The royal procession resumed and passed over Gwoemok Jeong Bridge and through the Pine Tree Avenue. The Pine Tree Avenue was planted with pine trees along its sides as King Jeongjo's visits to Hwaseong became frequent.

Upon reaching Jinmok Pavilion, Prime Minister Chae Jae-gong, who had arrived earlier, greeted the royal procession while performing "gochui" (encouraging music). Here, a warm beverage was offered to the king's mother. King Jeongjo changed into golden armor and helmet and entered through Jangmun Gate. Various officials and Hwaseong Commander Jo Sim-tae, along with military personnel of general rank and below, knelt on both sides of the road to greet him.

The royal carriage passed through Jangmun Gate toward Paldal Gate but turned right along the main thoroughfare, proceeded in front of the left and right military camps, and entered through Shinpung Hall, the main gate of the palace. The procession then passed through Jwayik Gate and Jungyang Gate and arrived at Bongsudang, the main building of the palace.

King Jeongjo escorted his mother to Jangnak Hall, located next to Bongsudang, and offered afternoon tea desserts, and in the evening, he offered the evening meal. The two-day journey had finally come to an end.

King Jeongjo went to his quarters at Yuyeo Hall and instructed his attendants:

"I am sorry for the rain that wet us today, but there were no major problems. It is unwise to always hope that everything goes perfectly smoothly. Yesterday the weather was clear and warm, and tomorrow there will be many auspicious ceremonies. The rain fell over dozens of li and suddenly cleared, so that itself is fortunate. Moreover, since this is the time when farming is about to begin, how is it not a blessing for farmers that the paddy fields have been watered?"

After 228 years, in 2023, King Jeongjo's Hwaseong Royal Procession is jointly reenacted by Seoul, Suwon, and Hwaseong cities.

The Seoul section will take place on October 8 from 10:00 to 18:00, the Suwon section on October 8-9 from 09:30 to 18:30, and the Hwaseong section on October 8 from 11:00 to 13:30.

As autumn deepens, do not miss the Hwaseong Royal Procession, the quintessence of Joseon court culture.