Jeong Jun-sung's Yeomindongngnok (322) A Noble Body: 'Korean-Caught Mackerel'

Mackerel is Korea's representative national fish.

It earned its esteemed place dating back to the Joseon Dynasty, so its history runs deep.

It was caught abundantly in our coastal waters, particularly in the East and South Seas.

At the time, it was called "godeo-o" (古刀魚) because its shape resembled a sword.

The name appears in multiple places in the Dongguk Yeoji Seungnam and the Joseon Wangjo Sillok.

In the Gyeongsangdo Sokchon Jiriji compiled in 1469, it was written as "godeo-o" (古都魚).

In the Jaemullo published during King Jeongjo's reign, it was recorded as "godoe-o" (古道魚).

In the Jasan Eabo, it is marked as "byeongmun-o" (碧紋魚), described as a fish with blue markings.

As common people enjoyed it widely, regional names for it varied.

Godong-o, gomang-o, dombari, godo-ri, sogodo-ri, tonggodo-ri, and so on.

The standard Korean term registered in the National Korean Dictionary is 'mackerel' (고등어).

In Chinese characters, it is written as '古登魚' or '高登魚', meaning a fish with a rounded, bulging back.

Most Korean household freezers contain a piece or two of mackerel.

Salted mackerel, or 'jabanmackerel,' is a prime example.

At affordable prices with good texture and abundant nutritional value, it is a staple on the common family table.

This Korean-caught mackerel is rapidly disappearing.

As supply dwindles, prices have surged nearly two-fold recently.

Last month, the farm price for fresh mackerel stood at 6,591 won per kilogram, a rise exceeding 100% over the past year.

Consumer prices also climbed to 11,460 won, up nearly 10% from last year.

As a result, the shelves of large supermarkets are being filled more quickly with imported Norwegian mackerel.

Rising sea temperatures driving mackerel away from Korean waters is largely to blame.

The catch that reached 450,000 tons in 1988 plummeted to below 100,000 tons last year.

To make matters worse, China's surging domestic demand has also destabilized the supply of imported mackerel.

Yet consumers still prefer 'fresh' Korean-caught mackerel.

At this rate, the day may come when the 'national fish'—Korean-caught mackerel—no longer graces the 'national table'.

"Following Alaska pollock, now mackerel too..." This is indeed a season that brings those words to life.